African hair sculptures: Laetitia Ky telling stories through hair
Once a symbol of cultural identity and status, hair sculpting has become a celebrated art form. With roots in African culture, it has evolved into a diverse and inclusive artistic display of self expression. Through the lens of Laetitia Ky’s experience as a hair sculptor we delve into the transformative power of hair.
What has your personal journey with hair been like?
When I was a child, I used to get my hair relaxed; I got my first relaxer when I was four or five. It was something completely normal here in Ivory Coast — most parents didn’t know the dangerous side effects of a relaxer, but you can’t blame them when it was something everyone was doing. I didn’t have much of a relationship with my hair until I went to middle school and things changed. To attend the school you had to shave your hair — that’s when I realised the importance of my hair.
How did you get into hair sculpting?
I started hair sculpting eight years ago when I decided to go natural. The decision was very drastic and I wasn’t used to the texture so I watched hair tutorials on YouTube for guidance. Then one day I came across an account that shared a gallery of black women’s hair before colonisation, and they looked amazing. It was sculptural, abstract, big shapes decorated with beads and gold. That’s when I started to experiment with my own hair, using simple geometric shapes at first. I began posting my work online and the more I posted the more views I got, until I went viral.
How do you think hair sculpting can be a tool for social commentary or activism?
Our hair is part of our body, and every aspect of the body that is judged or stigmatised automatically becomes political. In many places, Afros are constantly judged; it is considered ugly, unprofessional or not classy enough. If you can reclaim it, oppose yourself to all those considerations and use it to share a positive message, it becomes political too. You are able to change the perception of black hair in society, and change young girls’ views of their own hair.
How do you think hair sculptors can shape cultural narratives around beauty and identity?
I think every artist, every black artist, can play a big role in shaping cultural narratives because everything that comes with art is directly related to beauty and the way we express ourselves with culture. There is a bigger power in that and it all lies in the way a person delivers a message and touches people’s minds creatively
What has your hair taught you about yourself?
Hair has taught me patience. Dealing with my hair can be overwhelming sometimes. I have pretty long hair, and my texture is hard to deal with — the only way to deal with it is being patient and soft. It’s not easy because I am not a naturally soft person. Sometimes I want to do my hair quickly but I can’t, because I have to detangle and be slow, which can take the whole day. I’ve been natural for many years but I am still not fully used to it.
What have been your biggest career highlights?
I have too many to mention, but definitely my own book [Love and Justice] — it was the first thing that moved my work from an online platform to the real world on physical paper. Further, my trip to the Venice Biennale to represent my country as an artist in 2022 was a huge highlight for me because after that I was able to exhibit in many museums and galleries. Then, finally, my TEDxTalk last year and my collaboration with many big artists. It’s very hard for me to choose one because I’m very grateful for every single opportunity I was granted.